It sounds like you may have a short in the Junction Box # 38656 and the Breakaway Battery # 3802308. This is the only way I see power getting to the led light on your passenger fender without having it connected to anything. You will want to make sure this is the only battery on the trailer that would have power to power objects to determine if it was wired incorrectly. view full answer...
The most common things that can cause a P0420 error code are bad oxygen sensors, engine coolant temperature sensor malfunction (does not seem likely given what you have said), leaking exhaust, or a bad catalytic converter.
Since you had a manifold gasket issue, it sounds like there could still be a leak in the system somewhere. This can happen with gasket replacement if any remnants of the old gasket were still on the block or manifold when the new one was installed.
It could also have... view full answer...
Essentially your hazard lights are telling your brake controller that the brakes are being engaged every time the tail light blink because the hazards are on the same circuit as the brake lights. When the hazards flash, the brake controller recognizes that and sends the signal out on the brake light circuit.
To prevent your brake controller from sending the signal to engage your brakes when your hazard lights are on you need a Pulse Preventer # 5501. view full answer...
The main issue here seems to be not all of the trailer lights being able to function at the same time when you utilize some functions. This is often a ground issue but since you said you have a ground to a clean, bare metal surface we can probably rule that out. Additionally an overload can be a problem but since you mentioned you have LED running lights, that is likely not an issue either. So that means there are a number of other troubleshooting steps you need to take.
The first thing... view full answer...
This is symptomatic of a ground problem on the trailer. Ground problems normally show up when there is more load on the system. Applying the brakes with the running lights on will be the maximum draw from the lights.
The connector on your trailer is a wishbone harness. It should have 2 running light wires, one for the left side and one for the right side. On a regular 4-Way harness there are 4 wires and the running light wire is split to got to each side using a jumper wire.
Make sure... view full answer...
If the problem is that the brakes on the trailer are constantly engaged, most likely you have the red wire going from the brake switch to the brake controller hooked up to the wrong circuit. Use a circuit tester, item # PTW2993 if you need one, to find the wire coming out of the back of the brake pedal switch under the dash that is hot (12 volts) when the brake is applied and cold (no power) when the brake pedal is not applied.
Another possibility is that you have the wire coming from... view full answer...
I am assuming that when you hit the brakes and use a turn signal, both turn signals on the trailer blink. It sounds to me like either a ground connection is bad or some wires may have been crossed up. It is possible that some wires may have been cut or pinched either before, during or after the frame repair. First I would recommend inspecting as much of the wires as you can for any cuts or pinches and repair those parts.
Next, I would recommend removing the wires from your trailer connector... view full answer...
Here is what most likely happened. Your truck had a weak battery that was on it's way out. When you installed the brake controller you most likely had the doors open for an extended period of time which caused the weak battery to finally give up.
Brake controllers when left plugged into a vehicle would not discharge the battery. Since you had the same problem with the controller unplugged that would indicate this as well.
Your local auto parts store should be able to test your battery... view full answer...
First, I would check the pin that the blue wire is attached to. If you are looking at the back of the 7-Way on the truck, the brake wire should be connected to the pin in the 7:00 position. Make sure that the trailer side connector brake pin is in the corresponding location on its connector.
The 7-Way on the truck will also need to be grounded to the truck frame. If it is not, the circuits going to it will not be completed. You can test the output of the controller by using a circuit tester... view full answer...
It sounds like either the white ground wire is not properly connected or is not connected to the best ground location or there is a short to the blue wire.
First, make sure you have the white ground wire attached to the negative battery terminal. This is the best ground location for a brake controller. No other ground locations will really work as well.
To test the # 5504 controller, in the truck cab you will need to sever the blue wire several inches from the back of the controller.... view full answer...
There are a couple different ways that you can wire your 1967 Chevy truck for a 7-way connector. The key is to make sure you have the correct circuits are running to the correct posts inside of the 7-way socket on your truck.
If you take apart your 7-way socket to expose the connection points for the wires, then, starting at the 1 o clock position and moving clockwise, they should be as follows, Tail and Running lights, Left Turn and Brake, Ground, Brake Output Wire, Right Turn and Brake,... view full answer...
This sounds like a ground problem. The first thing you should know is that testing the trailer with another vehicle is not a fool-proof way of determining wiring issues on the trailer. The other vehicle may have a wiring system that can overcome the ground problems that the intended vehicle cannot.
Ground problems normally show up when there is more draw on a system such as when you have the running lights on and then use another function like a turn signal or brake light.
Make sure that... view full answer...
The difference between the 3025-P and the 3015-P is the pin locations of the wires on the orange connector. The reason for this is because the orange connector on 3025-P is wired to work on most GM vehicles from 1999-2002, such as your 2000 Chevy Pickup. The 3015-P is wired to work on most GM vehicles from 2003-2006. The orange connector on both harnesses are the same, but the pin locations for the different wires are different.
It sounds like you have 3015-P and the wires are not making... view full answer...
If the brake lights are not working on the truck, try checking the brake light fuse if you have not done so already. The owners manual for the truck should tell you where it is located.
If the brake lights are not working on the trailer side but you have power to the 4-Way on all circuits on the truck side, there is probably a bad ground, loose or broken connection, between the trailer connector and the tail lights.
First, check the connectors on both sides for dirt and corrosion and... view full answer...
There are a number of troubleshooting steps you will need to take to see what the issue is with your Prodigy P3 # 90195 brake controller.
You will need to find out if the issue is on the brake controller, truck, or trailer. To test the brake controller, sever the blue wire a couple inches from the back of your controller. Then circuit tester # PTW2979 to test the end of the blue wire coming out of the controller. It should only have power when you apply the manual override; if it shows... view full answer...
How much air pressure are you running in the air bags? Try lowering the air pressure and you should see the truck return back to the stock height.
The only way an air spring system will add height to a vehicle is if there is enough air pressure in the bags to raise the rear end. view full answer...
It sounds as if you have the wrong wire spliced into the red wire on your brake controller. You will need to use a circuit tester, item # PTW2993, to check the connection. You will need splice the red wire coming from the brake controller to the brake pedal switch wire that has power only when the brake pedal is depressed.
If this does not solve the issue, then I would check my trailer connector for possible mis-wiring or corrosion. Finally, I would check the grounds on the trailer brakes,... view full answer...
It sounds like the brake controller is getting an improper signal on the red wire. What vehicle wire do you have the red wire connected to? It should be a white wire just underneath the steering column. I have linked to a video below that shows which wire you should have the red brake controller wire attached to. Start at the 07:20 mark on the video.
It is always a good idea to check your ground and make sure it has direct contact with metal and is free and clear of paint or rust. view full answer...
It sounds like there is a short in the Hopkins Plug-In Simple Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector # HM41115 or there is a problem at the factory connection. I recommend cleaning the terminals on your connection and making sure you don't have any bent pins. Check these pins for function using a circuit tester like # PTW2993.
If that checks out then you can use the circuit tester to check each function of the harness to find the culprit. Replace wiring or harness... view full answer...
If you've already checked your grounds and they're fine, then I also recommend checking your vehicle/trailer connectors for rust or corrosion.
You may also consider checking ALL of your wiring to ensure it's wired correctly, as well for pinches, frays or broken wires. This is another common reason why trailer lights act funny, and can be easily overlooked if not searching for it.
Finally, the last thing I recommend checking is for, is a blown fuse. You're going to need to consult the... view full answer...
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